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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s top eateries, one might foresee renowned high-end venues. But, situated high among these gastronomic giants is a modest salonu situated in a distant area of northern London.

An Surprise Honour

The small Turkish spot, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a respected gastronomic guide. The accolade has left the proprietors utterly surprised.

“I’m totally astonished,” says a proprietor, referring to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their modest shop achieving such a lofty spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing destination, has retained much of its former charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking show, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the food, and this establishment certainly excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a tender texture.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in slowly. Once the flavourful mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is usually consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced taste.

Rising Above the Stars

Notably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the top of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can cost many times that price.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is most important is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to reveal what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a personal life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to echo outside its own walls. “In my opinion numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the greater significance of this culinary triumph.